Thursday, 7 September 2017

DAY-10: The Orkney Islands (Fri, Sep 1, 2017)

DAY-10: The Orkney Islands

Day – 10: Friday, September 1, 2017

Starting Location: Dunnet, Scotland, UK
Interim Location: John O'Groats, Scotland, UK
Interim Location: Kirkwall, Orkneys Islands, Scotland, UK
Interim Location: John O'Groats, Scotland, UK
Ending Location: Dunnet, Scotland, UK

Our plans for leaving the hotel around 7 AM didn't materialize but unless we faced a major traffic jam, we had 45 minutes to make a 10 mile drive to the ferry. We were out by about 7:50 and pulled in to the ferry terminal about 15 minutes later. It was a bit cool this morning but the sun was shining here and there but not everywhere. 







We boarded the ferry at 8:40 AM and were soon on our way across the Pentland Firth. About 45 minutes later we landed at South Ronaldsay Island to begin our day tour.







We met our driver, Stephen and the other passengers who we would accompany on the big bus. Within a few minutes we were on our way. By the day's end we would have visited five different islands and have seen the major tourist highlights albeit briefly.


The islands are basically treeless farmland surrounded by cold water, apparently good for the shell fishery.




We departed the ferry terminal at Burwick and drove into Kirkwall where we stayed for about an hour, enough time for "rest" stops and walking around the town. The key sites being the cathedral, the Orkney Museum and the "Secret Garden" (not actually much of a secret). The hour actually gave Sheila time to buy more shoes.









An Orkney Cat

The history of the Orkneys goes back thousands of years and we would see the ruins of Scara Brae and the Ring of Brodgar, signs of civilization in some cases over three thousand years old. It's another case where the anthropologists ask the question, "Where did they go?", my first question would be "Where did they come from?"





The Ring of Brodgar is bigger than Stonehenge. As we learned several years ago access to Stonehenge is quite restricted where as here in the Orkneys you can walk up to the stones at the Ring of Brodgar and actually walk within the great circle.

The other aspect of Orkney history surrounds Scapa Flow a nearly enclosed bay that served for many years as the home for the Royal Navy's northern fleet. 

To a degree, Scapa Flow is Britain's Pearl Harbor as in October 1939 the German U-Boat U-47 entered Scapa Flow and after series of unnoticed misfires, finally torpedoed and sank the Royal Navy Battleship HMS Royal Oak with the loss of nearly 900 sailors. The Royal Oak like the Arizona remains where it sank as a Royal Navy memorial.
HMS Royal Oak
U-47

As to the farming, it's all about cattle and sheep and a few Mangalista pigs, creatures that appear to be a cross between pigs and sheep.



We visited the fishing and boating village of Stromness with enough time for a bit of lunch and a brief walk through the town. Stromness is another departure point for ferry service to the mainland. 


John Rae - Arctic Explorer






Out last stop on the tour was at a small "Italian Church" built by Italian prisoners of war. It's a small structure built around what we would call a Quonset hut. It is ornately decorated but not in the style of the grand churches of Europe but in a more pedestrian style using paints and texture to simulate the ornate carvings and molding found in the cathedrals.


By about 5:30 we returned to the Burwick fishing port and ferry terminal 


and about 45 minutes later were on the mainland at John O'Groats from where we returned to the hotel at Dunnet.

The one day tour was a good introduction to the Orkney Islands. Our driver Stephen was both entertaining and informative. He was knowledgeable of the history and loaded with anecdotal stories, myths and a bit of local humor.

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